Day 6: From Villa de Ancora to Villadesuso

 I shared an “apartment” with Pat and Mary last night. That was a fun experience, and we enjoyed a wonderful seafood meal across the alley. I had cod fillet, and they had sea bass. The price was so reasonable but the company and conversation exceeded all worth. I really enjoyed sitting and being with them.

This morning we planned on a short day. We were going to cross the estuary, enter Spain and stop at A Guarda. This was going to be another reasonably short day of 14 km (9 miles). Mary Beth was suffering with blisters, and I had great compassion. I remember the days of the end of the first week in 2018 when the body was begging me to slow down by manifesting blisters and muscle pain. I kept refusing to slow down, so the blisters grew and became infected. I ended up in the urgent care and taking a rest day. The body and the Camino have an agreement that the mind cannot conquer. Mary Beth is stronger than I was/am, and she continued on the way albeit slower than other days. 

Mary Beth slowing down created distance between us, and I found myself too far ahead of Pat and Mary Beth. The difficulty of having pilgrims friends is the desire to keep up and not slow them down. I was proud of her today as she started slow and took care of her feet. [on day 9, as i edit this: I am still not happy to be apart from them, but based on my experience, I am happy they were not with me for Day 7].

I wrestled with staying close and walking slowly with Pat and Mary Beth or to go on and begin a solo Camino, which I know is important for my work and research. Yet the camaraderie is equally important, and being with Pat and Mary Beth was a perfect match. I prayed for Mary Beth’s feet as I walked and prayed for wisdom on how best to continue. I felt strong and walked on. When I arrived to the boat, I made the decision to part ways and begin my trek into solitude. There isn’t a good/bad or right/wrong choice, but simply a choice that will have its blessings and burdens either way. 

I crossed the estuary and entered Spain. I hadn’t planned for a forest after the boat, so I walked several km before finding a place for breakfast. I asked the host and hostess my regular question, “do you have eggs?” Or “Tienes Quevos?” I received a similar answer as in days passed, “no.” 

He was quick to say that he has toast, fruit, and wonderful coffee. He was so kind and hospitable that I released my desire for eggs and had the toast with cheese and some fruit. Less than 4 euros later, I left very satisfied. 

I continued my way out of A Guarda and down the coast. The coast quickly turned inland and up a significant hill into the mountains. I knew there was a great place for a snack 5.6 km away and was hoping for an Albergue. The snack was better than imagined - EGGS AND JAMBON! But there was no Albergue. I sat for a very long time. I relaxed; I ate; and I looked up a place to stay. Everything within 6km was booked, so I decided I couldn’t wait to find a place, and made a reservation to the closest place I could find. Little did I know, this was 10km further down the road. My very short day turned into a long day, and way I went through Oia and into Villadesuso.

The place is cheap, so I don’t expect much. But the host, Pablo, is kind, and his presence makes the stay all the better. Now I am sitting at a cafe writing. I found the cafe where Santa relaxes in the off season (see photo). Spain’s the per capital smoker rate is exponentially greater than Portugal’s. So I decided to start smoking today (just kidding, checking to see if my mother and grandmother are reading).

But today’s biggest difficulty isn’t the walking or the absence of eggs at breakfast. The greatest challenge is the quiet headspace of Day 6. I was holding dark thoughts today. I will spare you the details, but the Camino offers positive energy whenever a pilgrim desires it. However, when I have difficult days when anger seems to need some space to be, each step is way more difficult. I much prefer the pilgrim days with gratitude, whether talking with a fellow pilgrim or simply enjoying the creation. Today, anger needed some space to be. 

I have unadulterated access to anger. Most of my friends cannot understand this. Anger is just another emotion that tries to communicate unmet needs, injustices, and unreconciled division. I try to listen to my anger as a friend rather than an intrusion. However, today, I kept wondering why it needed space. I was alone and walking a long ways. I needed to conquer hills - and all I could muster, “Really, anger, today?”

I tried to listen, but the stories, the past experiences, the disappointment just kept coming to the surface. I tried to rationalize but every time I did, the anger grew, and my back grew sore and my steps grew heavy. I still don’t know what the anger is about, but i see it, and hope to befriend it while walking. I must admit that I wrestle with the motivation of befriending anger - part of me thinks it is placating friendship. I tend to hope - if I am kind with my anger, it will go away. Anger doesn’t work that way. In the words of Under Armour, “the only way is through.” 

Tomorrow is Sunday. I think I will walk in the morning and plan to attend worship somewhere along the way. I will feed my anger the Eucharist and ask to reconcile in order to help me see clearly and befriend myself more fully. In the end, this will help me to befriend others, too.