Week 1, Camino update

Week 1 photos

I write almost everyday, but the weekly update is simply a few snippets from the week’s writing. I am working from a small screen and a poor interface, so my typos may be more abundant than usual.

Day 1:

Day one of the Camino is not something one can prepare for. One pilgrim said, the Camino has three parts. The first is physical, the second emotional, and the third spiritual. I wish i could have skipped the first and simply gone to the third, but then again, maybe not. I left Saint Jean at 645 today and began the initial ascent toward Roncesvalles. It was straight up 400 meters in 2 miles. By 9 am, i was 4 miles into the 16 mile day, and i was already above the clouds. Saint jean sits at 170 meters above sea level. By the end of the walk, i had seen the mountains and the valleys from 1400 meters above sea level. In less than 13 miles out, i had walked almost one mile up. 

The first leg is as difficult as all the guidebooks say. Just when i think the misery was over, and i was going to enjoy a simple walk into my destination (Roncesvalles), the simple walk turned into a roller coaster ride straight downhill. I moved one half mile down amidst a three mile excursion. My knees pounded the trail. I was grateful for the surrounding forest that took away the sun pounding on me.

Uphill is easier than down.

—

The curious thing about animals on the first day of the Camino was the bells around their necks. From what i understand, most Camino days will go through towns and cities, and bells will ring throughout the path from the many churches in Spain. Today, the entire walk is beyond towns and villages. There are no churches on the first day of the Camino, beyond Saint Jean and Roncesvalles. (The bells are ringing as i type this in Roncesvalles). Today, the animals were the Church bells. Horses, cows, and sheeps have bells around their necks. They sway and ring like a bell tower as the animals pick their food along the countryside. The animals are the church bells for the pilgrims, and they do give glory to God, even the sheeps.

Too often creation is noticed as groaning, yet today the animals were glorifying. 

Day 2:

I walked a long way today. The second day is supposedly the second hardest physcial day on the Camino, second only to the first day. I am walking too fast, and the pregnant blister on my left heel is proof of the problem, (its also a sign of FOMO - more later)

I left early his morning at 6:38. I would have left earlier but i needed water and walked around trying to find it. It is important to water up the night before, so that leaving is easy and quick and clear.

I began walking alone. This was fine. The sun was rising behind me, so every once in a while i would stop and turn around to take a photo. By 9am, my legs were sore from walking downhill, so i was excited to see a restaurant on the hill ahead of me. I knew there was a more reputable place in-town, but i was hungry and weary. I also saw two pilgrims enter, and i was hopeful for a conversation with others. I can only spend so long having pseudo-dialogues in my head. Sadly, they didn’t speak English, so my linguistically challenged self sat alone. 

While sitting, Andy and Asia walked by. I met them last night and enjoyed their English-speaking company. I finished my espresso and delicious tortilla, which is an omelette (only better) in Spanish. Then i began walking again. I could feel the compulsion to catch up to Andy and Asia longing for someone else to talk with. I was craving verbal conversation. More often than not, i lament that  I do not know French or Spanish. Even my German is best by reading, not talking. My inability to speak another language leaves me quite lonely on the long treks.

I caught up with Andy and Asia and we enjoyed a conversation. Andy is a very fast walker, and Asia can keep up. I worked hard and did likewise. An hour in to walking with them, i could begin to feel my heel. I knew i needed to stop, but I didn’t want them to either stop with me or continue without me. Several times i was thinking, “your fomo is going to result in a blister.” It did. When we arrived to our destination and went separate ways, i removed my shoe to an enrmous heal blister. This was a sign of folly and not wisdom. The Camino has a way of demonstrating wisdom and foolishness. So far, i am living the latter.

Day 3:

Lindsay left today. I am super sad. The other day she said, “i think it is time to leave. I am holding you back from this experience.” I responded, “No, you are not. I am glad you are here.” What i was actually thinking, “Please, please don’t leave me here alone. You are my security blanket. I know i can get to every town if i know you are there waiting for me. You are motivation. You are comfort when it comes to meeting new people. Please, please don’t leave.” 

But, of course, I simply said, “no, you are not [holding me back].”

When we went to bed last night, it was unclear if i was walking to Pamplona and meeting her at the train station or not. I even offered to forgo walking so that she would have to travel from Zubiri to Pamplona alone. She refused that because she didn’t want to upset my walking goals. I assured her that a pilgrim was still a pilgrim even if he commuted once as an act of hospitality. Regardless, we agreed that i would continue my walk. 

I couldn’t believe it but i made it to the train station at 1030 with plenty of time to ay goodbye to Lindsay. She was surprised that i made it there, but not nearly as surprised as i was.

Between the time of malnourishment and arriving at the train station, I experienced my first deeply spiritual moment on the Camino. I had been praying psalm 16 and listening to Wendell Kimbrough’s music this morning. His music and words, along with the psalm exposed gratitude in my being for Lindsay. I began to weep uncontrollably with great sadness that she is leaving but great joy that our life is as beautiful as it is. Even as i type this, my heart expands and eyes cloud with tears. 

Day 4

What a day. I started off at 620am from Cizur menor. I was not feeling up to the task as i began. My feet hurt, especially my heel. I was still tired from the day before, and i was sad that Lindsay was no longer here. Last night was my first night in an albergue, and i was worried about snoring or being kept awakw by someone else’s. Needless to say, i did not sleep well. 

I met my youngest pilgrim companion today. She was 8 and was delightful to watch in the sunflower patch. I was quite surprised to see her several hours later entering the abergue. She walked 18km today! When we introduced ourselves, i mentioned i have a 9 year old daughter. I began to cry when i said Madeline’s name.

I ended up at puente la reina for the night and am staying at great hostel with some friends. We even went to a bull run, and Andy joined the festivities. I was the photographer. Atone point andy said, if you were 15 years younger, you would be right there with me. I was tempted to join him since i refuse to be called old in any phrasing.

Day 6:

Albergue: Buen Camino, 10 euros

Lunch: cafe deportivo, 9,60 euros - pinchos and coke

Dinner: cafe deportivo, 9, 60 euros - ribs and salad

Total: 29, 20 euros

I began the day with Asia and Andy. We left Viana a little bit later in the morning since we were all feeling exhausted the night before. Also, Asia’s rash was turning into an infection and my heel was leaking misery (a nice word to describe the infection that was growing in my now right heel). We needed rest, so we began at 730 instead of 6am. Logroño was 11km way, so we agreed to go at a medium pace to Logroño and then decide how to proceeed. Asia and Andy were so kind to walk slowly with me as i was nursing the heel. The change in gait is affecting my hip. I need to be stretching more than i am.

I needed to stop and work on my heel, so I encouraged Andy and Asia to go on without me.  I needed to slow down in order to go further. They agreed and left. I walked a few km when i met a woman named Pascale. We made an immediate connection and began talking of Jesus, prayer, and Mother Mary. She was raised Roman Catholic but is now Protestant. She begins seminary in India in the fall (yes, she is a French woman, became a Christian in Detroit, and is living in India). She attends the American church in Paris, which i have visited, and our friends Doug and Jodi worked there for a few years. She knew them. Small world, big family, as Scott Herr (the pastor of ACiP) says. 

I was quite tired by the time i reached the edge of Logroño, so i stopped in a park to nap. The Camino is teaching me to slow down, which is very hard to listen to. But i did, and the thirty minute nap under the shade without my shoes was perfect. 

I woke up from my nap and continued walking. I saw Pascale enjoying her lunch on the edge of the path. I wanted to stop with her so we could walk further together, but i also knew i needed to be alone. I continued, and as i turned the corner, a man named Christian threw me an apple from a tree. He was up on the hill overlooking the path. He yelled something in Spanish, and in my ignorance, i responded, “Buen Camino.” Then an apple was gently tossed to me. It was the most perfect snack in the hot sun.

 The next 10 km were difficult because of The Sun and elevation changes. But i made it. Andy and Asia arrived one hour earlier, and the beautiful thing was watching Andy return from the village to walk the last 2 km with me. What kind of human being drops off his stuff and then comes to help another pilgrim finish? Andy is Irish, and he is an incredible friend. I was so thankful. He carried a few things to lighten my load. I couldn’t wait to buy him a beer. 

When i am alone and walking, i listen to the music of taize in my headphones. Taize was a fabulous discipleship experience one year ago, and so melding Taize with Camino is a binding of my life to Christ’s. I resisted bringing my headphones to the Camino for months as i prepared. I didnt want music to get in the way or distract me from being present. However, music has deepened my connection to the Camino. For long stretches the music keeps my head up and looking around. 

My heel is treated, and i need to keep it drained and clean. The ruse at the clinic said, it should heel a few weeks after walking. I responded, “what if i am walking for 25 more days/‘ she responded, “Then 21 days later it will heal.” Then she laughed.....