Day 2: Walking from Porto to Labruge

When I was planning the trip, I wondered if I needed a day in Porto to rest before walking. I had a week to acclimate to the time change when I did the French Way in 2018. Last summer I walked through California, and the distance and time change were minimal; the time adjustment was in my favor for the Camino Real. But for some reason, I was confident to believe that I could land at 9:30pm in Porto, find my hotel, eat dinner, go to bed, and be ready the next morning for walking. I did it, but I am feeling exhausted and jet lagged as the first day comes to a close. 

Additionally, I was planning for a short first with a mere 24 km or 14 US miles, but instead walked almost 30 km or 18 miles . The extra mileage was more than I should have completed; the original mileage was probably a bit much on its own. This is not too mention that my American mind was fully engaged as I left Porto at 4 miles an hour rather than 3 mph. I could sense my body keeping track of time and distance as I would glance at my watch all too frequently to see how far I had gone. The measuring mind is dangerous on the Camino; it schemes and inhibits being present to the inner conversation and the environmental gifts. Today, the biggest gift was the crashing cadence of the Coastal waves. It almost slowed me down, yet it clearly tethered me to the land.

The inner voice was trying to find some space to speak but I remain resistant to hearing it. The two times I paid attention, I could feel the overwhelming sadness about this past year regarding Madeline. The year may be over, yet the sadness rages because of my fear at what’s ahead. 

I ache for Madeline daily, and if I stop to attend to this, I feel so overwhelmingly out of control. She suffers and doesn’t deserve it. Lindsay and I sucked at holding her suffering; hard as both of us try. Lindsay and I know Madeline has feelings about her future, and we share her fears. I love her honesty and resiliency, but the current reality requires more than any of us have, especially a 13 yo! You can only imagine the prayers and writings in my journals - these will not make a public appearance. 

Today is Micah’s bday. He woke up, drove the golf cart (and dog) to work, which is simply down the street. He has most of the day alone because Madeline is in Holland and Maggie is at Camp Geneva. Being alone is his dream day, especially being alone at the cottage. 

I love that kid. He is wicked smart, a gentle competitor, a respectful adolescent, and a curious seeker in faith. We tell him he is “good” too often, and I imagine the goodness gets exhausting as he deserves to be a kid, to make mistakes, to be immature. He is hyper responsible, and sometimes I just wish he would break one rule. In all honesty, he probably does, but rarely, if ever, gets caught. 

I miss the kids and Lindsay, and Molly. But I spent some time praying for him on his birthday: 

“May the Lord shine His face upon Micah, and may each step in running; each moment sitting in class; each hour spent with friends; and each morning spent with family - grant Micah a remarkable sense that he is loved in this world and that he has significant gifts of mercy and love to share with all those he meets. In the name of Jesus, Amen.”

I was super hungry after taking a rest and settling into the Albergue Santiago in Labruge. The Albergue host recommended Ruben’s that opened at 7pm. It was 545, so I sat outside the restaurant waiting to eat, and at 710 the place still hadn’t opened. I looked inside, and no staff were to be seen. I ended up leaving and walking towards the beach. I was tired and had already walked 18 miles on the first day. But I was determined to have a good meal with seafood or fish. I ended up walking 2 km back whence I came, and found the most delightful place. If you ever visit Porto, drive or take a taxi to Trinca Espinosa in Lavra, Portugal. I ate Sardines with Rice in tomato sauce. But more than the food, which was excellent on its own, the chef and the hostess are dynamite. It was an exceptional eating experience. The evening ended with Santiago Rum cake topped with Coconut. It was just fantastic. 

I walked back to the Albergue and enjoyed the sunset. I readied my bag and water resources and then  snuggled into bed. Sleeping is difficult, and I feel restless. I worry my restlessness will keep others awake; even more, I worry if I enter a deep sleep that my snoring will wake others, so I prayed this prayer:

Lord, Grant me mercy in the evenings that I will not snore, so others’ will not need to grant me grace in the morning because I did.